Banquet 88, London E1: ‘Sweet, rich, fiery and moreish’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

I turn up solo and brace myself to be dumped by the cleaning supplies cupboard, but instead the staff treat me like an off-duty empressPerched in between a Zizzi, a Côte and a Slug & Lettuce at the far end of St Katharine Docks in Ye Olde Tower of London tourist-land, Banquet 88 feels like something of an enigmatic Asian…